Bad plants for your puppy

Grooming your dog

Having the right tools for the job means less time on the table, and a finer finish. The promise of technology is that it will make our lives easier, in this increasingly high-tech world. From computers to shampoo, we face a stunning array of choices. The flip side of all that modern convenience is information overload. When it comes to dogs, whether you're a novice preparing your first prospect for the ring, or a 30-year veteran with state of the art equipment purchased at your first dog show in 1974, there's hope. Brushes and CombsIf you're going to be stranded on a desert island with only one tool, pack your brush. Both simple and essential, choose it with care. Even short-coated dogs like Dalmatians do a certain amount of continuous shedding. A good brush feels comfortable in your hand, and leaves a minimum of loose hair after a 20-minute brush-out. Pay attention to the number of bristles: more is better, for pulling hair. If you're noticing as much hair around the dog as on him, chances are you have the wrong brush. Wood and plastic are the most common materials. Some professionals prefer the feel of wood, saying it transmits into your hand how hard you're brushing the dog. With plastic, you need to pay attention that you don't brush too hard. Most breeds will require a wire slicker brush; for long-coated dogs like a Shih Tzu or Poodle in show coat, a pin brush is often preferred. A boar's bristle brush pulls oils up on short-coated dogs, for shine. It's not a must-have, and most people wouldn't notice the difference right off; but when you see a bristle-brushed dog in the sunlight, the results can be surprising. For some fanciers, it's a subtlety they eventually notice, and want to do all the time. While combs come in all shapes, sizes, and finishes, any solid metal dog comb, narrow at one end and wider-toothed at the other, will work for most breeds. ScissorsScissors suffer the most abuse. They get knocked off the table, dropped on the floor, are the most-used and least maintained tool. Buy a top-shelf pair (and learn to maintain them properly!). Higher quality steel is lighter in weight, and will scissor better, resulting in a finer finish that lasts longer. Save yourself the headache and the heartache, spend the $7 to $15, and send them out for professional sharpening on a regular basis.

Ergonomic is not automatically better. Some shears designed to prevent carpal tunnel syndrome can wind up causing more strain, if they feel awkward to grasp. Make your own assessment. Rubber rather than metal handles are not for everyone; and some groomers report that cushy grip feels awkward and flimsy, requiring them to muscle through for proper control. Don't buy the first pair of scissors you see. Check out all your options, and you'll find your best pair. ClippersNo single tool in the groomer's tack box has seen as much evolution as the electric clipper. This is another must-have where it doesn't pay to skimp. The basic rule of thumb is: the faster a clipper moves, the better the cut. The right clipper provides a smoother cut, a smoother finish, greater efficiency, and saves wear and tear on your joints. Not just any trimmer will do. Even the softest dog hair is coarser than human hair. Choose a quality animal product; manufacturers offer high-quality products at comparable prices. The trick is to choose the best clipper for the job. Depending on your breed, you may want to go the pro route, and invest in more than one: a clipper for cutting through matted hair, and another for light trimming. There are two basic things to assess: heat and speed. A clipper that feels hot in your hand means hotter blades; and hotter blades mean more chance of clipper-burning a dog's skin. If you're a novice, better to go with something else until you develop your skill. A less expensive clipper will suffice for shorter jobs, and basic trimming. For heavy, dirty, or matted coats, as in the case of field or herding dogs, you'll need a heavy-duty clipper with a faster blade, that won't overheat with prolonged use. With greater speed parts wear out, and need to be oiled more. The third factor, again, is what feels good in your hand. Once you've found the right tool, routine maintenance is crucial. Once a week, open the case and clean out any trapped hair, to save the motor from running hotter than necessary. Oil all parts with regular clipper oil. Keeping your clippers clean and oiled is the smartest thing you can do to ensure they'll work smoothly for many years. Blades. When you buy a clipper, generally it comes with only one blade. Depending on the desired coat length for your breed, you'll want to buy more blades. The higher the blade number, the shorter the cut will be. You need to adjust what you're actually cutting by the number of blade you're using. Ceramic blades are an interesting innovation, designed to help prevent those burns from fast-moving metal parts. The trade-off is a choppier cut, and a (seemingly) slower moving blade. As yet, nothing provides as smooth a cut as an all-steel blade. Still, it's worth doing your homework to find out what's out there, and how they're being used.

Some clippers sport new designs that fit nicely in your hand, while others offer heavy-duty motors that will cut through anything. Don't buy until you find the combination that will work best for you.
Nail Clippers and GrindersGenerally speaking, dogs tend to accept grinding more easily than cutting. Any Dremmel-type rotary grinder will work, but one manufacturer has a new variable-speed design that is especially useful for puppies and skittish dogs. The lower you dial it down, the quieter it becomes.
Even if you're primarily a grinder, there will be times you'll need to clip instead. Best advice: Get a heavy-duty pair, even for a small dogyou'll get through the nail the quickest, which means less stress for everyone. Here again, you'll need one designed for the rounded, thicker canine nail.
Choosing a pair with a nail guard may help with the common fear of cutting the quick. Confidence is half the battle: if you're tense, your dog is more likely to be afraid. The trade-off is that you can only cut a little of the nail at a time, and sometimes several short clips are more tortuous to a dog than a quick, simple snip. Ideal is to clip and then grind, with regular grinding for maintenance, depending on your dog's needs. For conformation, the object is to get the nail short enough that it doesn't hit the floor; for lure coursing and other sports, the dog may need more of a point for traction.
If the dog keeps pulling his foot away, and you can't control the clipper, then the grinder is a very good option.
DryersThink of this as a 15- to 30-year investment. You want to make sure your dryer doesn't get too hot, or blow too cold. You can't be without a dryer when you're bathing dogs, and the better you buy, the longer it will last. While hand-held blow dryers will get you by, eventually you will want more professional results.
One option is the forced-air hose dryer, resembling a vacuum cleaner: our grooming expert swears a good forced-air dryer can levitate a small dog off a table if you've got it on high. For someone with Samoyeds or Collies (i.e., dogs with big, thick coats) you'll get through the coat a lot quicker with the power of compressed air, blowing water off the dog when he comes out of the tub.
The other pro tool is the stand dryer, which is essentially a highly efficient blow dryer mounted on a variable-height stand. It blows warmly and gently (with variable temperature settings from cold to hot). Your stand dryer will give you the driest, straightest coat. While there isn't a lot of difference outwardly, higher-end models will have a stronger (and longer-lasting) motor, and are more likely to blow hot air without overheating and burning the dog's skin.

Teacup Adult Yorkies that are Finicky eaters.

Teacup Adult Yorkies that are Finicky eaters.

This information applies for Older Yorkies and not Teacup Yorkies that are young.   Young teacup yorkies need to have food and water next to them at all times so they do not get a sugar attack.  Once your Teacup Yorkie matures and is an adult you can use the following information.  Please ask your veterinarian for their input.

Many adult Yorkshire terriers are happy to eat anything placed in a bowl in front of them while others start that way but gradually become discriminating nibblers and finicky eaters. If your   adult Teacup Yorkie suddenly goes from being a good eater to a very finicky eater, it could be a sign that your Teacup Yorkie puppy  is ill so be sure to have your veterinarian examine him to rule out medical problems.

Establishing good eating habits helps prevent your Yorkie puppy  from becoming a finicky eater or a dog with an appetite problem. Once your Teacup  Yorkie is no longer a puppy, feed him only one meal or two small ones daily. Feeding your dog continuously or too frequently often results in a pet that becomes a fussy eater or appears to be a finicky eater, when he is really just full. If your Yorkie refuses to eat the meal you just gave him, do not immediately give him something else to eat instead, as this will soon turn into a habit and you will be the one trained, not your dog. Avoid standing and watching your Teacup  Yorkie to see if he is going to eat his meal because your dog will often think there is some more food coming or he has done something wrong and will refuse to eat. Most dogs kept on a regular feeding schedule have a more dependable appetite. Some Yorkies like to be with the family when they eat so feeding them at breakfast or dinnertime when everyone eats works well with many dogs. Just like children who eat too much candy or junk food and turn their nose up at a proper balanced meal, feeding your pet too many treats or people food often results in a dog that turns up his nose at dinnertime. Giving your pet a treat occasionally or a tiny bit of people food once in a while is not normally harmful but remember that unlike people food or treats, dog food is specially formulated to meet your Teacup Yorkie's nutritional needs and provides the minerals, vitamins, daily protein, and other nutritional requirements necessary. Feeding them too much people food or treats is unhealthy for your pet and often helps turn him into a finicky eater.

If your Teacup  Yorkie puppy has turned into a finicky eater and he is physically healthy, you need to work on getting him back on a sensible schedule and proper dog food. A varied diet is fine but if you continuously try different foods because he will not eat or is fussy, this just prolongs the problem. Early in the morning put down your pets food, show him and then leave him to eat. Return after half an hour and check to see if he ate any. If not, remove the food and at the end of the day, put down a new bowl of fresh food. Repeat this and it will not take your dog long to figure out that he needs to eat. Remember that you are not starving your dog but offering him food twice daily and he will soon choose to eat.

Feeding Adult Puppies

bad breath associated with teeth or mouth problems

Feeding Adult  Puppies

When a dog reaches full maturity, he enters the maintenance period. Normal healthy Yorkie Puppies who are not pregnant, nursing or hardworking have relatively low nutritional requirements for maintaining an appropriate body condition. Good body condition for a dog is defined as:

• One in which the animal is well proportioned
• Easily observable waist behind the ribcage
• Ribs can be felt with a slight fat covering over them

Yorkie Puppies fed a complete and balanced diet do not need supplemental vitamins, minerals, or meat. If supplemental meat or table scraps are fed, they should account for no more than 10% of the total diet. Higher levels can dilute the nutritional value of a dog’s diet, predispose him to obesity and may create a finicky eater.

For Yorkie Puppies with lower caloric needs and/or for Yorkie Puppies that are less active, attention should be paid to the potential for excessive weight gain. Overweight Yorkie Puppies may have more health problems and a shorter life expectancy Often a dog's weight can be reduced simply by eliminating table scraps and treats from the diet and by avoiding high-energy dog foods.

Feeding recommendations for adult Yorkie Puppies can vary, depending upon the breed, activity, metabolism and owner's preference. Whether or not a dog is fed once or twice each day, he should be fed at the same time, and fresh drinking water should always be made available.

Feeding During Pregnancy

Regardless of the breed of dog, the female should be at least one year of age and in at least the second heat period before she is bred. If males are overweight, they may be physiologically and anatomically inefficient for mating. Overweight females can have lower conception rates and more problems at whelping. If possible, each dog should be fed as an individual to achieve and maintain normal body condition.

During the last two to three weeks, requirements for all nutrients for pregnant females will increase, and caloric requirements can be met during this last trimester by gradually increasing the female's food intake. Diets containing more than 1600 metabolizable calories per pound of food and at least 21% protein are recommended. The easiest way to ensure proper nutrition is to feed a good-quality dog food that is labeled complete and balanced for reproduction and growth, or for all life stages.

Unless a female has a tendency to put on too much weight during pregnancy, she can be given all the food she wants to eat. It is not unusual for a pregnant female to temporarily decrease her intake at about three to four weeks into the pregnancy. Normally, she will eat more during the latter phase of pregnancy. However, if this does not occur and body condition begins to deteriorate, steps should be taken to increase food intake. This can be done by moistening dry food with warm water to improve palatability, or by adding small amounts of canned dog food to the dry food and feeding several times each day. As whelping nears, the female may lose her appetite. This is considered normal behavior, and unless she appears to be having a health problem, no change in the feeding program is necessary. In may cases, food refusal during the ninth week is an indication that whelping will occur within the next 24 to 48 hours. Usually within 24 hours after whelping, the female's appetite will return. After the puppies are born, she should receive all the food she wants.

During reproduction, water serves as a carrier of nutrients to the developing fetus and removes wastes for elimination. Fresh water in a clean bowl should be available at all times.

Feeding During Lactation

The demand for milk by nursing puppies will continue to increase for about 20 to 30 days (or up to 4 weeks). Consequently, the female's food and water requirements increase during this time. At peak lactation, the female's food intake may be two to four times above her usual or maintenance food intake. In order to maintain good body condition and to provide ample amounts of milk for the puppies, nursing females should be offered all the food they want.

Moistening dry dog food with water will help increase food intake during lactation. Another important reason for offering the dry food moistened is that at three to four weeks of age, normal puppies will start nibbling solid food. As puppies begin to eat more solid food, the demand on the female for milk production will decrease. Normally puppies are weaned between six and eight weeks of age, and by weaning time, the female's food consumption should be less than 50 percent above her usual or maintenance level.

To help reduce the milk flow and prevent mammary gland problems, the following procedure for weaning is recommended:

On the day the puppies are weaned, the female should not receive any food, but should have plenty of fresh water to drink. The puppies should be separated from the dam and offered food and water. Dry food moistened with warm water may help stimulate the puppies' food intake. On the day after weaning, the dam should receive 1/4 the amount of food she was fed prior to being bred. The dam and puppies can be grouped together for several hours on the day after weaning so that the pups can nurse the dam dry. On the third day, the female should receive 1/2 the amount fed prior to breeding, and on the fourth day, 3/4 the amount. By the fifth day she should be offered her usual maintenance level of food. If the litter is large, the female may be quite thin when the puppies are weaned. In this case, she should be given extra food after the fifth day of weaning and until her body condition returns to normal.

Refusal To Eat

If your dog is normally not picky about its food and if you have avoided creating "problem eater" habits, a trip to your veterinarian may be in order. Any deviation from his normal habits may be a sign of illness.

Offering variety in pet foods encourages a dog to become a "holdout" to see what it will be offered next. Some Yorkie Puppies are eager to eat a particular pet food for several days. Suddenly this eagerness vanishes and they eat reluctantly or refuse to eat for a few days. This refusal can be the dog's own attempt to control calorie intake. Overeating can cause a dog, like a human, to experience an uncomfortable feeling. The dog will attempt to relieve his discomfort by not eating or eating very little of his food.

Transitioning To a New Food

If for health or other reasons you must change your dog's diet, do it gradually over a seven to ten day period. Add a small amount of the new diet to the food currently being fed. Each day increase the quantity of the new diet and decrease the amount of the old. This gradual diet change helps avoid digestive upsets.

Feeding Nursing Puppies

As a rule of thumb, each Yorkie Puppy  in a litter should gain approximately its birth weight each week during the lactation or nursing period.

While most females are excellent mothers, some nervous or inattentive dams may require special attention to help them calm down and accept their new offspring. This may involve working with both the dam and/or puppies, and placing pups near nipples at feeding time. Poorly nursing puppies may be smaller in size, cooler in body temperature and weigh less. Routinely handling the pups will allow for an opportunity to check their condition and progress, although excessive handling may be stressful for the dam and pups and should be avoided.

Introducing Puppies to Solid Foods

By six weeks of age, most puppies are ready to be weaned. If they have started to eat solid foods from the dam's dish, it is not unusual for puppies to begin to wean themselves at about four to five weeks of age.

Young puppies should be fed an appropriate Yorkie Puppy  life stage food at least three times a day until their food requirements, per pound of body weight, begin to level off as they mature. Feeding schedules can be reduced to twice a day when pups are four to five months old, and once a day when they are eight months or older. Fresh water in a clean bowl should be available at all times.

Warm water or milk can be used to moisten dry food, however, too much milk can act as a laxative and cause digestive problems for some puppies and adult dogs. One hour should be allowed for a Yorkie Puppy  to eat, after which the uneaten portion should be discarded.

Establishing routine eating habits by feeding a Yorkie Puppy  in the same place and at the same time each day is recommended and can help in housetraining. Offering human foods from the table is not recommended because it encourages begging and may create a finicky eater. Puppies consuming a complete and balanced diet do not need supplemental vitamins, minerals, or meat.

The amount of food offered to a Yorkie Puppy  will vary depending upon its size, activity, metabolism, and environment. For the best results, develop a regular feeding schedule, such as three small meals a day for younger pups. You can gradually reduce to one feeding in the morning and one in the evening as your Yorkie Puppy  ages. An overweight Yorkie Puppy  not only presents a poor appearance, but the excess weight can cause bone abnormalities. Anytime owners have questions or concerns about their animal's body condition, they should consult their own veterinarian.

Some signs of aging are described as:

• changes in body weight
• difficulty in locomotion (movement)
• changes in hearing and/or eyesight
• changes in skin and/or haircoat
• changes in urine or bowel habits

Visit our very beautiful Teacup Yorkies with Baby doll faces.  You can view each breed page and get information on each particular breed.   We also offer teacup Maltese and Teacup Pomeranians with Teddy Bear Faces and Beautiful coats.   Our puppies have a 14 day viral and one year guarantee on genetics.   The Puppies have registration papers and have a microchip.  Puppies have been seen by a licensed veterinarian and have health certificates.

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Exercise Your Yorkie Puppy

Exercise Your Yorkie Puppy

Yorkies need regular exercise to ensure continuing good health. Take your Yorkshire Terrier puppy for walks, run around in the yard.  Try anything to get him up and moving.

Fleas and Ticks Off Your Yorkshire Terrier

Parasites such as fleas and ticks can cause serious diseases. Keep your Yorkie puppy free from parasites by using the method recommended by your veterinarian.  Frontline is a great product that we recommend.
 

Feed a Good Diet

Work with your veterinarian or breeder to find the food that is best for your Yorkie's age, size and activity level. Keep the diet consistent. Always provide plenty of fresh, clean water.   If you decide to change the puppy's food, please make sure that you do it slowly.   Drastical changes can make your Yorkie  puppy ill.

Provide Chew Toys

Yorkie Puppies never outgrow the need to chew. Protect your possessions by providing a variety of chew toys.    
 

32. Protect Your Yorkshire Terrier From Poisons
33. 
    Make sure that your home and yard are free from poisonous substances, such as antifreeze, which tastes good but can cause serious illness or even death. Keep your veterinarian's number handy in case of accidental ingestion.  Watch for frogs at night because if your puppy licks one they are very poisonous.

Be Alert to Changing Needs

As your Yorkie ages, his needs will change. Your puppy  may require a different diet, need more sleep, and be less active.  Your Yorkie may not be as "fun" as he once was, but he is the same dog you loved as a puppy. You should do everything you can to pamper him in his final years.   Yorkies can life an approximate 15 years.

Take Pictures of Your Yorkie- Create An Album

Create a Puppy Photo Album.    Take lots of pictures just like if you had a newborn.    Be sure to take a picture at least every 2 months to see the growth of your Yorkie.   It's fun and will give you lots of memories. More importantly, a current photo will be invaluable in the event that your Yorkie is lost

Dog Discipline

Yorkie Discipline

Teacup Yorkie Dog Discipline

Dog Discipline

One day, probably soon, your dog will do something wrong. He might steal your T-bone steak off the kitchen counter. He might leave a little present in your closet. What do you do? First, don�t lose your temper. The best solutions to most dog discipline problems are patience and prevention.

Preventive steps can make all the difference dog discipline. For instance, take him outside for a potty many more times than you think he could possibly need until he develops some control. Never tempt him with a steak left within his reach. Don't leave your closet ajar. If he never gets the idea, he won't do the terrible deed and make you miserable.
Stage 1: Verbal Correction
No matter how careful you are, your dog (and you) will make mistakes. Try to catch him while he's still merely thinking about doing something wrong. From the start, discourage his potential trespasses as though you were a mother dog. Issue a low growl, or "No," with the warning message, "Don't you dare. Don't even think about it!" He'll probably reconsider. Be sure to give him verbal praise when he responds correctly.

The next best way to correct him is to catch him in the act. If puppies make a housebreaking mistake during the first week in the new home, don't scold. Just take the offender outside and praise him when he does his business in the right place. For older puppies, a good sharp scolding is in order when they make a mistake, whatever that mistake was. Surprise him so he's taken aback and links the reprimand to his action.

Scolding after the act is virtually useless, but we sometimes slip up and do it anyway, because it makes us feel better. The dog, however, rarely makes the connection between the punishment now and the great fun then.


Stage 2: Environmental Correction / The Set-Up
Environmental corrections can bring miraculous results. To the dog, it feels like someone's watching him all the time, so he'd better behave. It�s a great way to train him and instill dog discipline, as long as he doesn�t become skittish because of the technique, so proceed within reason. Environmental set-ups work particularly well against mischief. Many dogs are smart enough to figure out that they can get away with things when you're not home. But, luckily, dogs are predictable�they do what feels good and stop doing what doesn't feel good. So you can set up a situation where the environment makes the dog feel lousy.

Here are some examples of successful set-ups suggested by professional trainers for certain misbehaving pooches:

One dog got his kicks rummaging through the bathroom garbage and strewing the shredded contents everywhere, especially when his owner wasn't home. The owner cured him of this nasty habit by sprinkling a little hot pepper in the first few layers of miscellaneous tissues and papers in that garbage can and then left for work as usual. It took the dog exactly one experience with the peppered garbage to cure him for good.

A dog that liked to steal things off the kitchen table never did it again after his owner put a piece of linoleum on the table. About half of it hung over the edge. Then he put tin cans filled with pebbles and several other miscellaneous noisy but harmless items on the linoleum so that when the dog jumped up, the whole pile came tumbling down on him. That surprised dog did not risk another jump.

Set-ups are powerful medicine and can be very frightening, especially to submissive dogs. We highly recommend that if you are having a problem with your dog, you ask a professional trainer to evaluate your dog's personality and suggest the right type of set-up to use. Be sure that no real harm comes to the dog.


Stage 3: Time Out
Just like for kids, time-outs work for dogs, too. When your dog makes a big mistake, scold him and put him in his crate for 20 minutes. Ignore him while he is inside. After time is up, let him out and forgive him completely. Cheer him up with a little petting or play time.

Some trainers don't like to use crates this way. However, many owners find this technique invaluable as an aid in solving a dog's discipline problems. Try saving the time-out for serious mistakes, like biting too hard.


Stage 4: Physical Correction
We highly recommend that, except for collar corrections, you use physical corrections only with the guidance of a professional trainer. Physical corrections must be done properly to work, and even then, they aren't effective on all dogs. Some dogs only return violence with more violence. And for some dogs, physical correction is terribly frightening and can damage their confidence.

Don't ever hit your dog, not even with a rolled up newspaper. It does absolutely no good whatsoever to push his face into a pile of poop. The only thing that can accomplish is to make him a poop eater.

Collar corrections
For dogs older than four months, you can use a chain or pinch correction collar as a dog discipline tool. The collar correction is handy for problems around the house or when you're out for walks�whenever you can be there personally. An important warning: Never leave a correction collar on an unattended dog! He could choke and even kill himself (many have done so)!

Collar corrections consist of a quick, snapping pull, followed by an immediate release. Dragging on a correction collar can cause the dog to become immune to its effects. Constant pulling can even damage his throat. If you don't already know how, see a professional trainer to learn successful collar correction technique.

Other forms of physical correction
Most dog trainers use several forms of physical correction as needed. These may include scruff shakes, alpha rolls and taps on the chest or under the chin. Some use throw chains, shaker cans and squirt guns. Consult a professional trainer to learn how, when, and if you should use these corrections on your dog.


Summary
Many dogs need physical correction at some point in their lives, especially during adolescence when they tend to challenge authority. However, inappropriate use of physical correction can trigger dog aggression or create a fearful animal. Use verbal correction whenever possible, but learn some physical correction techniques appropriate to your dog just in case you need them

Dangerous Products for Dogs and Puppies

Certain foods and household products can be dangerous to your Yorkie.  It’s only natural for Yorkshire Terriers and Teacup Yorkies to be curious. But their curiosity can get them into trouble when they get into areas where you store household items such as medicine and detergents.

Foods that are harmful to your dog:

May cause vomiting, abdominal pain
and/or diarrhea:

Wild cherry
Almond
Apricot
Balsam Pear
Japanese Plum
May cause varied reactions:
Yeast dough
Coffee grounds
Macadamia nuts
Tomato and potato leaves and stems
Avocados
Onions and onion powder
Grapes
Raisins
Chocolate
Pear and peach kernels
Mushrooms (if also toxic to humans)
Rhubarb
Spinach
Alcohol
Symptoms of possible poisoning are: vomiting, diarrhea, difficult breathing, abnormal urine (color,
aroma or odor, frequency, etc.), salivation, weakness. If your dog should ingest harmful chemicals,
contact a veterinarian or poison control center immediately.
Common household items that are
harmful to your dog:
Acetaminophen
Antifreeze and other car fluids
Bleach and cleaning fluids
Boric acid
Deodorants
Deodorizers
Detergents
De-icing salts
Disinfectants
Drain cleaners
Furniture polish
Gasoline
Hair colorings
Weed killers
Insecticides
Kerosene
Matches
Mothballs
Nail polish and remover
Paint
Prescription and
non-prescription medicine
Rat poison
Rubbing alcohol
Shoe polish
Sleeping pills
Snail or slug bait
Turpentine
Windshield-wiper fluid